powerpill.gif (949 bytes) Removable Star Wars Yoke Base powerpill.gif (949 bytes)

This is the removable Star Wars yoke for my final control panel, which will be a modular design, also featuring dual removable T2 guns!

Here are the parts used.  Once again, I printed out a full-size template which aided in construction.  I tried to make as few cuts as possible.  The two triangular side pieces were cut off the corners of the left-over melamine from my cab with a single diagonal cut, and another small cut on the back corner of each.  The top and front corners were rounded using a plane.

The front panel is where the yoke is mounted, which requires a square hole to be cut, and 4 holes drilled.  Since the yoke's bolts are very short, the wood behind each mounting hole had to be drilled out to 1/4" thickness with my 1-1/8" forstner bit (normally used for pushbutton holes) to allow the nuts to fit.


Here the base is assembled, minus the back plate, using cross-drilled 1x1s, urethane glue, and 1-1/2" wood screws.

This is the nearly finished base and yoke, with iron-on melamine edging and t-molding installed.  Still missing two Happ pushbuttons (one each side.)  The 1/4" mounting bolt goes down thru a metal pipe that guides it thru the back of the wooden base.  The tube fits so tight in the base that I had to tap it in with a hammer.  The angled 3/8" hole was drilled by placing the yoke on the drill press platform and drilling slowly.  The 5-1/2" bolt has a plastic cap (commonly avialable in the fasteners section at Home Depot, in the little specialty drawers) that fits tightly on the head (also tapped in with a hammer) so it can be hand-tightened into a tee-nut fitted under the CP.


The bolt has a small spring that pushes it up when loosened, which means that when I set the base down on the CP, the bolt is only poking about 1/8" from the bottom of the base.  This also allows the tip of the bolt to drop down into the mounting hole 1/8" for easily locating the hole, but doesn't really scratch the lexan since the only thing pushing it down is the weight of the bolt itself.

A washer that is hot-glued to the bolt keeps it from accidentally falling out and getting lost.  The metal bracket keeps the metal guide-tube from being pushed farther out the underside of the base when the knob is tightened.

The hole at the top is where the bolt goes down thru the CP into a tee-nut mounted underneath.  This will have a metal insert to make the hole pretty, once artwork and Lexan are mounted.  At the bottom is a 5/8" hole where I will be mounting the end of a USB extension cord, running back to the USB hub inside the CP.  For now, the yoke's USB plug runs thru the hole directly down to the hub.  The hole will be capped with a hacked pushbutton top when not in use.
Note that since the base is pressed firmly against the back panel and the control panel, it can't come loose, or rotate sideways, or be rocked away from the CP.  In fact, it connects so tightly, it even stays put when the panel is rotated upside-down!


I'm one step closer to finishing my cab!  All that's left is to build the dual Terminator 2 gun platforms, and add the artwork and Lexan to the 3rd panel...



The information on this site is for the purposes of education and entertainment only.  The owner of this site makes no warantees as to the accuracy of the information, and takes no responsibility for any damage or injury sustained due to the use of information herein.  The design of the Pac-Mamea cabinet and all photos, computer renderings, drawings, schematics, and printed information relating to such are Copyright 2002-2004 Robert Meyers.  No ownership of other copyrighted material found on this site is implied unless otherwise noted.